I think my last hours spent in Ixtapa might have been the most special.

Yesterday, I had the unique opportunity to swim with dolphins at Delfiniti Ixtapa, a “dolphinarium” located five minutes from the main strip of hotels, and just off the beach.  For 45 minutes I swam among the dolphins, petting, hugging and marveling at their gentle nature and intelligence.

The instructors provide a full explanation – in English and Spanish – of all the activities and the rules.  I felt completely safe and relaxed in their hands, as did the many young children enjoying their first introduction to marine life.

As if that experience weren’t enough to write home about, later that night I headed to the El Presidente Hotel for their Fiesta Mexicana, a weekly outdoor festival featuring dancers from all over Mexico, vendors selling local crafts, and tacos al pastor that were legendary. I had heard rumors that the best tacos in Ixtapa were served at this fiesta and I couldn’t wait to judge for myself.

I was not disappointed. Cooked in front of me, the meat was flavorful and tender, served simply on a small corn tortilla. On the side was a selection of chopped onion and salsas – leaving it to each hungry patron to decide how much they want to sweat.

If tacos aren’t your thing, you certainly won’t starve here. Posole, chorizo con pappas (sausage and potatoes), beans, tortillas, elote asados (grilled corn), empanadas filled with cheese and mushrooms, and traditional nopale “salad” lined the buffet table as well, along with horchata, atoles and cerveza to cool you down.

I carried my heavy plate over to a table in front of the stage to watch the dancers. Representing the states of Jalisco, Michoacan, and Veracruz, each set injected a warm, local pride  into the night.  Obviously a Saturday night favorite, the mood at this party was relaxed and joyful, with locals dancing along with the music, sipping their drinks and basically making the most of the dwindling summer nights.

It’s low season now and the heat and regular rains keep most tourists away. Only the true lovers of Mexican culture and Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo’s unique charms remain.  It’s a different experience to travel during an off season – while the roads are empty, the lines short, and the glorious coastline extends itself only to you.

~Vanessa Torres, reporting live from Ixtapa

Today I had the chance to tour some residential neighborhoods, just five minutes away from the strip of high-rise hotels that dot the shore. Though less than five miles from the coast, these homes are nestled in winding, hillside streets, lush with flora brought on by the rainy season.  Quiet, peaceful, and far different from the typical expectations of life in a resort town, Ixtapa has bike paths, well-paved roads, gorgeous views of the ocean and mountains, a crocodile estuary and ecological reserve, Parque Aztlan.

By lunchtime, clouds were threatening to put a damper on the afternoon, but after about 2 hours, and some heavy rain,  the sun was peeking through again. I had a light lunch of ceviche while I waited for the storm to pass and then headed to test the waters at Loma La Mer, a luxury boutique hotel that has the only open-air Thalasso spa in all of Mexico.

Thalasso, from the Greek word thalassa, refers to the ancient therapeutic use of seawater. Loma La Mer has a pool filled with the stuff, and is set up with individual hydro-tubs and forceful jet streams aimed right at your most tense areas for an effective hydro massage. The hotel has only 16 luxurious suites that overlook gardens, waterfalls, an adjacent golf course and nature reserve. A gorgeous spa and restaurant make this property one of the most impressive in all of Ixtapa. It will open to the public as of November 1, 2009.  For more information about Loma Del Mar visit www.lomadelmar.com.

~Vanessa Torres, reporting live from Ixtapa

What a day! I am a hot, sweaty and tired mess, but the hours spent wandering the quaint streets of Zihuatanejo have left me certain that I’ve gotten a true taste of this fisherman’s village that dates back to the 13th century.

Lunch at Restaurantes Mexicanos Any (formerly Tamales y Atoles Any) allowed me to sample some of the region’s oldest and most labor-intensive dishes, like Posole, Mole, and Tamales. After a few bites of Any’s green Posole, served traditionally with oregano, chile, lime, onion, radish, avocado and queso fresco, you will pledge to return, just as soon as you are finished digesting your current meal.  Fresh horchata and jamaica help squelch the oppressive heat, and in no time I was reaching the bottom of my bowl.

After gorging myself, I was happy to hit to the streets in search of some local color and a little tourista shopping, only to find most shops closed for afternoon siesta (typically, shops will close around 1pm and re-open at 4pm).  I bargained with some of the few open vendors before pausing to enjoy a refreshing iced coffee on the beach next to the fishing boats that had pulled in for the day.

Once the caffeine kicked in, I headed to Arte Nativo on El Paseo del Pescador, an artist’s co-op run by local hero Alfredo Tapio. His shop serves to teach and encourage young artists and promote works that portray the traditional coastal lifestyle of Zihuatanejo’s citizens. Many of his students often go on to teach art in other communities without access to art schools or supplies.  (For more information, go to: www.galeriartenativo.com)

I returned to the hotel just in time to catch the seasonal release of baby sea turtles into the Pacific ocean. In an attempt to better their chances of survival, the hotel collects the newborns who often become an easy meal for local birds and fish.  After 2 – 3 weeks in captivity, the babies are slightly stronger and more equipped to handle the 20 foot journey.  The exercise happens at dusk and excited hotel guests line the shore and cheer on the turtles as they lay them gently in the sand. The little tortugas instictively head towards the lapping waves and the aquatic lives they were meant to lead.

After three days in Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo, I can totally relate.

~Vanessa Torres, reporting live from Ixtapa

My hot stone massage this morning was wonderful! Relaxing, quiet and like at many traditional Mexican hotels, semi-al fresco. With incense and candles burning and an open ceiling, I could hear the morning waves crashing into the shore as my therapist kneaded the knots out of my legs and back. Sufficiently relaxed, I grabbed some cafe and fresh juice and headed back to the room for a shower and to prepare for an afternoon of sightseeing around town.

The photo above is of Los Gatos Beach in Zihuatanejo…more to come…

~Vanessa Torres, reporting live from Ixtapa

After a light lunch of the local dish, tiritas (a favorite of fisherman who can prepare it right on the boat using only lime, onions and the catch of the day) and ceviche, we headed to El Refugio de Potosi, a brand new center for wildlife conservation and ecological education. About a 20 min drive from the center of Ixtapa, the refuge is located in the “coastal, tropical, dry forest” of Barra de Potosí, in the state of Guerrero, Mexico.

An impressive undertaking, El Refugio is still in the early stages of development but currently includes botanical displays, an iguana habitat and breeding facilities, Macaw roosts, hummingbird feeding stations, a butterfly house, sea turtle nursery, and a 15 meter observation tower.  Future plans include additional exhibits for mammals, amphibians, reptiles, and insects and a facility for students and volunteers.

After sweating it out with an iguana family, it was definitely time to get back to the hotel and hit the pool. With temperatures hovering around 95 degrees and a humidity factor that only a seaside town can muster, it was definitely time for a little poolside R&R. Once again, I grabbed a chair 10 yards from the sand and watched the waves roll in. Hey, if it ain’t broke….

The Dorado Pacifico has 27 years of experience hosting travelers and to show her appreciation, she’s about to undergo a multi-million dollar facelift. Rooms are getting refreshed (see photo above) and the property is adding a spa that will eventually be adjacent to the tennis courts. Currently, El Dorado offers a wide range of massage therapies, but will now be including skin treatments with a focus on natural elements and ingredients.

I’ll actually be trying the Hot Stone massage tomorrow, which I promise to give a full report on. Hopefully, I’m not too dopey to appreciate the city tour of Ixtapa and visit to eco-reserve, Parque Aztlan, that follows.

~Vanessa Torres, reporting live from Ixtapa