When visiting the entrancing city of Marrakech you are faced with the decision to stay in either a hotel or riad (former mansion turned into a B&B)…if you are looking to relax your stay away poolside with a cocktail in hand, I would go the hotel route…but if you are longing to experience the real Marrakech, definitely stay in a riad.

Once that decision is made then you are faced with the painstaking task of picking which riad you want out of the hundreds Marrakesh has to offer.  Luckily you have me to guide you to the perfect one…Amirat al Jamal.

Set right in the heart of the medina (oldest part of the city), next to the cities most famous landmark, the bustling plaza Jemma el Fna, Amriat Al Jamal is found down a nondescript alleyway.  At first you will be cursing me and wondering why I took you down this dirt floored alley full of stray cats…but don’t judge this alley by its grunge…this area is actually home to some of the cities most stylish residents like Richard Branson.  At the end of the rustic (to put it nicely) alley you will happen upon the riad’s door and once inside you will be in a completely different world, one that is decadent yet authentically Moroccan.

The riad’s Californian owner, Peggy Ward Engh, and her adopted Berber family, instantly make you feel at home with a greeting of mint tea. After being memorized by the beautiful courtyard, more magic waits in Amirat’s five unique guestrooms, each decorated in a different style and full of antiques.

Once you are ready to venture out of your newly found palace-home, Peggy helps you organize your day and gives expert advice on how to navigate the streets of the medina…and best of all she reveals the secrets to expert Moroccan-style bargaining. Peggy and her staff can also arrange amazing day trips…and if you have the time, they can even organize spending the night with a Berber tribe who live in the Sahara.

At the end of a long day of haggling with vendors, Amirat is the perfect place to relax as the riad has an actual pool in the center courtyard…not one of these bathtub-sized “dipping pools” that most riads have.  There are also two terraces on the roof to rest in…and make sure to have dinner one night on the roof; the view of the Koutoubia Mosque’s Minaret is breathtaking.

Although Amirat offers super luxurious accommodations, the rooms are in the “affordable luxury” category with prices starting at $200. For more information visit amirataljamal.com

[Audio clip: view full post to listen]

While in Morocco, if I want to say “thank you” I say “shukran” (arabic)….click on the audio above to hear how not to say….

When booking this last trip to Morocco, I did not realize that the holy month of Ramadan was taking place until after I purchased my non-refundable airline tickets. For those who do not know, during the month of Ramadan, muslims fast from sunrise to sunset.

At first I was panic stricken when I discovered we would be in a Muslim country during Ramadan.  Would we starve?…..how could we last in 100℉ without a drop of water all day?……would we be looked down upon if we did eat?

I then launched a full-fledged online research mission to see what others who had crossed the line had to say.  Comments I found were mixed, but tended to lean on the side of “don’t go during Ramadan.” But at this point, the trip was booked and I had no choice…..so I stopped researching and hoped for the best.

As it turns out, going during Ramadan was a blessing instead of a curse.  The normally jam-packed streets of Marrakech are a bit calmer due to the fact that many tourists are scared-off by Ramadan and many Moroccans use this month to vacation elsewhere.

Moroccans are very respectful of other cultures and understand that westerners do not fast, so eating during the day was not a problem.  But in all actuality, we found that with having a big breakfast in the hotel we were fine waiting until sundown for the next meal…..and as Moroccans tend to over-feed, it was good to have an empty stomach for dinner.

Above is a Moroccan Berber preparing mint tea for us in a small village outside of Marrakech.  Although he was fasting he was eager to share his culture with us and quench our thirst on a hot Moroccan afternoon.

My favorite tajine I had in Morocco was the kefta tajine, which is a meatball in tomato sauce tajine.

Ingredients
 for the kefta (meatballs)
:

1lb ground beef


1 onion, very finely chopped


3 garlic cloves, crushed


1 tsp ground ginger


1 tsp ground cumin


1 tsp coriander


1 egg


small bunch of parsley, finely chopped


salt and black pepper 


For the tagine (stew):


2 tbsp olive oil


1 small onion, finely chopped


1 14oz can of tomato sauce


1 14oz can chopped tomatoes, drained


2 tsp cumin


2 tsp plain sugar


Small bunch of parsley, finely chopped

***4 free-range eggs – only for the alternative preparation***

Preparation



1. For the meatballs, place the beef, onion, garlic, all spices, fresh herbs and egg into a large bowl. Knead with your hands to form a smooth paste. Roll into walnut-sized balls and set aside.


2. In a large, preferably a heavy-bottomed casserole, heat the olive oil and add the onion. Cook on medium for a few minutes.


3. Add the prepared meatballs and cook until lightly browned on all sides.


4. Combine the tomato sauce with the canned tomatoes, along with the sugar. Cover and simmer for twenty-thirty minutes or until sauce thickens to your liking. During this time slowly add the extra cumin taste-testing it to your liking.


5. Add chopped parsley as garnish before serving.

Alternative Preparation

After completing step 4, carefully break the eggs onto the top of the stew. Place the tagine or casserole into the oven and bake until the eggs are cooked to your liking, approximately ten minutes.

You can also add vegetables, such as peas or green beans, to the stew. Be surea to add them at the same time that you add the tomato sauce. You may need to add a cup, or so, of water if you add vegetables. Allow for some extra simmering time if you add vegetables.

Serving

This tagine is usually served to guests in a decorated tagine, such as the one in the above image. It is eaten with bread or couscous, or by itself. It is also makes a great sauce for pastas!

This recipe was found on a wonderful blog called MoraCo Imports Blog , and the tajine pictured above is from their store MoraCo Imports

A hammam (which in arabic means “spreader of warmth”) is a traditional cleansing ritual that many Moroccans take part of once a week.

Think of a hammam as an oversized sauna.  You first enter a warm steam room to let your pores open, followed by a coating of olive oil soap.  Then comes the part that foreigners find freaky….the “gommage”…..this is where all the dead layers of skin are rubbed off with a glove that feels like it is made of super rough sand paper.  You are then covering in a full body clay mask, which is then washed off with ice cold water to close your pores.  The ritual ends with a soothing massage.

Public hammams are available all over Marrakech, but keep in mind you will be in a room with all local women or men and will be scrubbed with a glove that has scrubbed many others before you.

For hygeno-freak americans, a great alternative is the hammam found in Les Jardins de la Koutoubia hotel. It is a hybrid of a western spa and a hammam, but you do get to experience a 100% authentic hammam treatment (and they give you your own glove to keep).  The nice part for couples is that the steam rooms are private and for two, so couples can enjoy the treatment together.

Pictured above is the spa’s pool where you wait to be called for your treatment.  For more info visit their website: lesjardinsdelakoutoubia.com